HOW A SUMP PUMP WORKS IN YOUR HOUSE

Posted on December 6, 2011 by gordonenergy

A sump pump is a requirement if you have a full basement. Without one, your basement can take on water during wet weather events.

Don’t confuse a SUMP PUMP with a SUMP PIT. A sump pit is used to collect the rain water that can form around your home or structure. A sump pump is used to discharge that water away.

How does water enter a sump pit so the pump has a chance to work? Water will take the path of least resistance. The most common way is when the ground water table beneath your home rises and eventually pushes “upwards” beneath the home. (see drawing)

As rains continue, the ground becomes so saturated that it forms a water table.  The ground becomes so saturated, that this water table rises upward and possibly towards the bottom of your basement floor slab.  If the water table rises to the same level as your basement floor, you can experience a wet basement.  This is unless you have a sump pit to collect this water and a sump pump to get it far away from your house.

 A home with an average size basement (about 1,400 s.f.) will need 1 sump pump that has the capacity to pump 2,000 gallons of water per hour.  This is an average that works on most homes, but there are always factors that can change this.    If your home is in an extremely wet area, low lying area, near a water source, etc… you may need an additional sump pump or a larger one. 

 Your sump pit basin should hold at least 30 gallons of water, and be at least 24″ deep.  If your sump pit is too small, or less than 30 gallons, it may cause your sump pump to cycle more often in order to keep up with the water that comes in.   This increased cycling can reduce your sump pumps life span.  A sump pit that is not deep enough will allow the water table to get close to the same level as your basement floor before the sump pump can operate. 

 The  best way to keep water away from your floor slab, and even needing the sump pump to work is proper drainage around the home.  A good slope of 1″ – 2″ per 5′ is a good minimum to keep any moisture from sinking down around your foundation.  The moisture that comes down on your roof should be directed into your gutters and taken at least 10′ away from the home. 

 A sump pump should last at least 5 years. They are like a coffee pot or hair dryer.  You never know when it will burn up.  Some people opt to install a 2nd sump pump, directly on top of the primary pump just in case the 1st one decides to call it quits.  This is a good insurance policy, especially if you live in a home that needs the sump pump to work in order to maintain a dry basement.  You may not have time to replace it before your basement floods!   Also, the cost to install a sump pump on an emergency basis can be way more costly. 

 The sump pump should discharge the water so it gets at least 10′ away from the house.  You don’t want your sump pump to pump the same water over and over again.  It is a common practice to bury the sump pump discharge line under the ground to a nice place in the yard that is far away from the house and has good slope. 

 The sump pit should be cleaned out at least once per year as debris, silt, etc… can infiltrate it and potentially cause the pump to clog.  Your sump pit and sump pump should be maintained just like  your heating and cooling system.   Annual inspections should be made by someone who knows what they are looking for to help ensure that your sump pump will be ready when it is needed.

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Gordon Energy & Drainage Videos

Posted on November 23, 2011 by gordonenergy

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Drain Tile Installed On The Footing vs Next To Or Off The Footing

Posted on November 14, 2011 by gordonenergy

Drain tile installed on the footing vs. next to the footing

 It is technically better to install the drain tile off, or next to the footing.  But, it is also better to use a 1,000 pound chain when installing a swing.  But, will you ever need a 1,000 pound chain?  Would a 700 pound chain do the job?  In most cases, yes.  But, a 1,000 pound chain is still better, right?  That is the basic logic behind installing drain tile off, or next to the footing vs. installing it on the footing.

 It takes more labor to install the drain tile off the footing.  The reason is because the ground next to the footing needs to be prepped.  Trenching with a shovel may be necessary to ensure that the top of the tile is not above the footer.  Concrete overspill from the foundation may need to be removed.  Additionally, you should not lay the tile directly on the dirt, so a 2” minimum bed of gravel or filter fabric should be installed first.  

 Installing drain tile on the footing is much easier and requires less labor.  You simply sweep the footing and it is ready for drain tile installation. 

 You can expect to pay about $ .75 – $ 1.00 per lineal foot more to install a drain tile next to the footing vs. on the footing.  You will also have a little more gravel to pay for.  This equates to about $ 200 more for an average sized home.

 Is it worth the extra $ 200?  Having an understanding of how water enters a basement is the key to understanding if it is better to install it off the footing.   The drain tile system is designed to keep the water table from pushing up on the bottom of the basement slab.  If you can imagine the water table doing this, you can get a clear picture of how it works.   During rainfall events, the ground beneath the home becomes so saturated that the water table rises like a lake upwards towards the floor slab.  The water will take the path of least resistance.  A drain tile system should be this path of least resistance since it is installed at a level that is lower than the floor.  But, is lower better?

 If your drain tile system is installed next to the footing, it is lower than a drain tile that is installed on the footing.  So, it will be able to pick up the rising water table sooner.  It manages the water approximately 4” – 8” sooner than a drain tile that is installed on the footing.  (this can vary depending on how much trenching is done)  

 But, drain tile installed on the footing is still installed at a level that is lower than your basement floor so it still works.  Drain tile installed on the footing will allow a water table to rise closer to your basement floor.  But, as long as it keeps it from penetrating the floor, does it matter?  Well, in some rare cases, a water table can rise so fast that it overwhelms a standard drain tile system.  In those cases, it could be beneficial to have it lower.

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ADD A WINDOW TO YOUR BASEMENT

Posted on October 17, 2011 by gordonenergy

Many homeowners are looking for ways to improve their living space and have found that the basement is a great place to do just that. 

 The problem with some basements is that when you finish them off you still feel like you are in a dark and dank basement.  Natural light makes a living space feel warm.  Many full in ground basements don’t have a lot of natural light.  Windows seem to make a basement feel like any other part of the house.

 One way to bring natural light into a basement is by adding a window or 2.  This can be done by digging up the dirt on the outside of the basement and holding the dirt back with an egress window well.  Once the dirt is held back away from the house, the window can be added by cutting a hole in a foundation wall.  The most common size is a 4′ wide by 4′ tall hole, but the size is only limited by your imagination.   It is entirely possible to add a series of windows to an entire side of a home.

 Here are some common types of wells that can hold the dirt back:

These wells are designed to be used when adding a typical 4′ x 4′ window.  If you want to add a series of windows, you may have to opt to build a landscaped retaining wall to hold back the dirt. 

 Another benefit, besides letting in natural light, is that these windows can save your life in case of a fire.  Many homes built prior to 2003 with a full in ground basement don’t have a window big enough to allow a person to escape in case of a fire.  Most codes today require that all basements with living space to have a window that meets the egress codes. 

 Gordon Energy & Drainage, located in the Kansas City area, has been installing egress window wells since 2003.  They have been in business since 1972, but decided to add them to their product lines when the codes changed in new home construction.  They have installed over 5,000 egress window wells on new & existing homes since 2003.

 You can also do it yourself.  It is a hard, dirty job but if you got 2-3 days and a good back, you can get the job done.  Here is a summary of things you may have to do.

1.  Dig out the dirt for the well
2.  Cut the foundation wall
3.  Install a window that meets egress codes (usually 5.7 square feet + of open space)
4.  Install an egress well, or other means of holding back the dirt.  (3′ away from home)
5.  Make sure the egress well can drain.
6.  Put gravel around the bottom.
7.  Install a ladder if the well is more than 44″ high.
8.  Backfill the dirt back around the well, tamp it in.
9.  Haul away the excess dirt as you will have plenty!
10.  Paint the trim around the window, clean up, etc…..

Gordon Energy & Drainage charges between $ 3,500 and $ 7,000 for a complete egress window well system installation.  The prices can vary based on the height of the well needed, the type of well chosen, and various job site conditions.  Most of their installations are in Overland Park, Leawood, Olathe, Liberty, Lee’s Summit, Blue Springs, Lenexa, and Kansas City.

What will you get for your investment?  The added light let in by the new, deep window can eliminate the dark and dank atmosphere so common to earlier basement finishes.  The sensory difference can be remarkable.  Light can be a crucial part of the design.

A primary benefit of a deep window is EGRESS!!!  An easily accessible opening which you can escape or a firefighter can enter in the event of a basement fire.  Basement fires are common, so this is really more than a code issue. 

If you are considering a basement renovation as a way to expand your living space, you should be prepared to have to comply with the building codes, especially if you are adding a bedroom.  Contact your city to find out the exact code requirements.

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Egress Well Cover, Egress Well Grate, Window Well Cover & Window Well Grate

Posted on September 28, 2011 by gordonenergy

Covers & Grates for your Egress Well or Window Well

Most houses in the Kansas City area come with some type of egress well or window well.  Many of these egress wells can be very tall and potentially dangerous to children, pets or unsuspecting adults.  They can also be a trap for many forms of wildlife such as mice, rabbits, opossums’, frogs, snakes & even skunks.  Consider protecting your family from injury or legal action by installing a cover or grate on your egress well or window well.  Gordon Energy & Drainage, located in Olathe, KS carries & installs well covers for most metal & fiberglass wells that have been sold in the Kansas City area.  If we don’t have what you need we are able to custom make a cover or grate of nearly any size or style, including covers for concrete wells.  We carry covers for the following egress well manufacturers:  Monarch Manufacturing, Boman Kemp, Rockwell & Bilco.  All of our covers are designed with safety in mind including the ability to escape in case of a fire.  Below are a few of the covers we offer.  Give Gordon Energy & Drainage a call today.  (913) 764-6229.

 

 

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Gordon Energy participates in Kansas City’s 4th Extreme Home Makeover

Posted on September 8, 2011 by gordonenergy

GORDON ENERGY & DRAINAGE DONATES THIER TIME & MATERIALS ON KANSAS CITY’S 4TH EXTREME HOME MAKOVER

 ABC’S EXTREME HOME MAKEOVER: HOME EDITION” showed up in Ottawa, Kansas in July of 2011 for the 4th time in the Kansas City area.

 The lucky winner of this home makeover was Staff Sergeant Allen Hill, who was nearly killed by a massive roadside bomb while serving in Iraq.

 The home builder selected to build the structure was Rhonda Prohaska of Canyon Creek Construction.  Rhonda asked all of her subcontractors to donate their time and materials for this great cause.  Also, community volunteers showed up in droves to help chip in where they could.

 Most of the companies and volunteers who donated their time and materials on the home used only the best available products in their field.  No corners were cut on quality from the foundation to the roof. 

 Gordon Energy & Drainage was selected to install the foundation/basement waterproofing, drain tile system, and sump pump on the house.   Maurya Mitchell, president, said, “When Rhonda called us to ask if we would like to be a part of donating for this cause, I was very excited.  We are always looking for legitimate ways to give back to our community.  We want to give them some of our best options for waterproofing their basement.  A good drain tile system with a lot of gravel and a filter fabric can help reduce possible leaks and structural issues for the life of a home.  If most homeowners do it right during construction, they can greatly reduce the need for structural repairs such as piers, foundation wall movement, and heaving.  Allen Hill sacrificed so much for me, my family, and my country.  It is the least we can do.”

 The product used to waterproof this basement is called Impax made by Tremco Barrier Solutions.  It is a spray on rubber membrane that goes on 40 mils thick and can span foundation wall cracks if they should show up over time.  The sump pump that Gordon Energy & Drainage installed was made by Little Giant Pump Company and is capable of pumping 2,400 gallons per hour.   The system comes with a 10 year warranty and is designed to keep the home dry and the foundation repair companies away! 

 Gordon Energy & Drainage was also selected to waterproof the basements of the previous 3 homes that were done in the Kansas City metro.  In 2005, they worked on the Johnson Home.  In 2007, they worked on the Gilyeat and the Jacobo homes.  Kevin Green was the home builder for the previous 3 Extreme Home Makeover jobs.

 For more information on this Extreme Home Makeover, go to:

 http://kgauthierphotography.myshowit.com/emhe/index.html

 http://www.kmbc.com/news/28721133/detail.html#ixzz1VyoLllT0

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SHOULD YOU INSTALL A SECONDARY DRAIN TILE ON THE INSIDE OF YOUR BASEMENT?

Posted on August 16, 2011 by gordonenergy

SHOULD YOU INSTALL A SECONDARY DRAIN TILE ON THE INSIDE OF YOUR BASEMENT? 

 As a builder, you may be faced with the question, “is an inside tile worth the extra expense?”  We will attempt to lay out the facts about it so you can make your own conclusion.

 First, an interior, or secondary drain tile is not required by most city codes.  Currently, Miami County, KS is the only jurisdiction that does require it. 

 Having an understanding of how water enters a basement is the key to understanding if an interior drain tile is worth the extra money.   All drain tile (exterior and interior) are designed to keep the water table from pushing up on the bottom of the basement slab.  If you can imagine the water table doing this, you can get a clear picture of how it works.   During rainfall events, the ground beneath the home becomes so saturated that the water table rises like a lake upwards towards the floor slab.  The water will take the path of least resistance. Hopefully, the home that you build has a good working drain tile system so that path of least resistance is not the cracks in the floor!

 An interior drain tile is simply one more place for this rising water table to take as its path of least resistance.  It is a backup or extra help for your exterior drain tile. 

 However, there is 1 more avenue that this water table can take besides the drain tile.  It is the gravel bed that is directly under your basement slab.  A good bed of clean ½” or ¾” gravel (4” thick or greater) will allow a lot more water to pass through it than a drain tile can.   This is because the gravel bed is placed across the entire basement, vs. just next to the footing.   Generally, larger, clean, & rounded gravel will allow the most water to travel through it.   There are many things that can happen to you to cause the gravel to not be able to do the job.  Plumbers who dig in the ground rough pipes can sometimes leave dirt trenches causing dams in the gravel bed.  Footings are sometimes placed in the middle of a basement, causing a dam.  Dirty gravel, crush & run gravel, or pea sized gravel won’t allow for the proper flow of water.  In, these cases, the gravel may not be a good source for the water’s path of least resistance.

 An average price for an interior drain tile is about $ 1.20 per lineal foot.  An average size home would utilize about 180’ lineal feet to circle a basement, or cost you about $ 220.

  Sometimes, an interior drain tile may be added on a lot by lot basis.  In summary, installing inside drain tile is definitely better than not, but you have to decide if the extra cost is worth the extra piece of mind.

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Epoxy or Polyurethane Foam for Basement Crack Repairs?

Posted on August 3, 2011 by gordonenergy

A casual debate often will arise over the use of either epoxy or polyurethane foam for foundation crack repair.  Both will fill the crack and stop water from entering through the crack.   If stopping a leak is the only concern, then either product is fine to use.

The question remains, which one is better?  That depends on the type of crack and conditions present at the time of the repair.  The obvious difference between the 2 injection systems is epoxy will restore the structural integrity of the cracked wall by filling the crack with a high-strength adhesive that essentially ‘welds’ the cracked wall back together.  Filling the crack with these high-strength epoxies eliminates the movement of the opening and closing of the crack in the wall that occurs during normal expansion and contraction of the soil during the seasonal cycles.

Polyurethane foam also fills the crack with a resin that expands in the presence of moisture and can be flexible enough to accommodate the same movement of the soil due to these freeze/thaw or wet dry cycles.  Since polyurethane resin systems expand during the injection, less resin is required and can be much more economical to install especially in wider cracks or loose soil conditions.  For a majority of foundation cracks the resin selection should be what the contractor is most comfortable using.  Some cracks will have better repair results using one system over the other.  For thin or hairline cracks, low viscosity epoxy resins will more often achieve better results because the epoxy will remain a liquid during the injection process allowing the resin the extra time that may be needed to fill tight hair line cracks when using low pressure cartridge type injection systems.  For very wide cracks, the polyurethane expanding foam systems will fill the crack and do so with a fraction of the resin that would be required if epoxy was used.  Wet or actively leaking cracks often will have better results being injected with polyurethane foam.  There are epoxies that will work well in wet conditions as the epoxy will displace the water during the injection process, but extra care needs to be taken to “flush” out any resin that combines with the water.  This is accomplished by continuing the injection of the epoxy coming out the next higher port and pushing out any resin that appears milky until clear resin flows out the port streak free.

There is a class of cracks that require expert review in terms of resin selection.  Structural cracks due to movement and or settling of the home Cracks that are wider at the bottom or where the walls on either side of the crack appear deflected are often due to settling should be evaluated by a structural Engineer who can provide professional opinion on the best corrective action.

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Kansas City Foundation Repair— What’s wrong with my Basement?

Posted on July 15, 2011 by gordonenergy

Kansas City Foundation Repair— What’s wrong with my Basement?

Known fact: If you are fortunate enough to have a basement, then you are also unfortunate enough to have a cracked foundation. 
In all my years working in the foundation repair industry and after seeing thousands of foundation walls, I have never seen a foundation with zero cracks.  

There are different kinds of cracks.  “No Crack is a good crack” But, not all cracks mean big trouble.  Any crack will allow water into the basement.  If water comes in the basement you have “A Leaky Basement”.  Nobody wants a leaky wet basement. Water in the basement can lead to bigger problems like Mold, Mildew, Insect infestation and wood rot.  If your home is like mine, we like healthy air to breath and no bugs running around the house.  Let’s keep the wood rot outside and leave it for the painter to deal with.  If your cracks are leaking you need them sealed with an injection or maybe even dugout, patched and waterproofed.  Be cautious if someone recommends letting the water in and collecting it.   There are often better, less expensive solutions.  Inside water collection should be a last resort.

So what’s wrong with my foundation?  Kansas City foundations consist primarily of Poured Concrete, Stone, and Block depending on the building Era and location. The majority of our basements were built in clay soil.  When the clay soil gets wet it expands and pushes on the foundation walls.  When the clay soil gets dry it allows the structures to move down or settle.  With all these cycles of movement in time the foundation eventually cracks.

The bigger concern is finding out what caused the crack and if it’s a symptom of a larger problem.  Reading cracks and identifying the problem is not an easy task and should be done by a professional and diagnosed accurately.  Structural Engineering firms will do this for a fee.   Most Foundation Repair companies will do it at no charge.  Make sure you choose an individual with experience and qualifications. 

Two typical Foundation problems in the Kansas City Area are Bowing Walls and Settlement of Foundation footings.  If you have concerns with these conditions on your home don’t’ put it off.  It’s best to get an evaluation because these problems tend to snow ball and can worsen quickly in short periods of time.   Addressing the problem quickly often reduces the total cost to repair.

Wishing You and Your Home a Healthy Foundation,

Bill Row
Gordon Energy & Drainage

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Kansas City Foundation Repair Contractor Launches New Business, Hires New Division Head

Posted on July 11, 2011 by gordonenergy

(published 6/29/2011 on the KC Star at:  http://pressreleases.kcstar.com/?q=node/62841)


Gordon Energy & Drainage, a leading Kansas City foundation waterproofing company in Kansas City since 1972, has announced that it is adding a new Kansas City Foundation Repair service to its product line. Until now, Gordon Energy & Drainage has specialized in foundation repairs, but only those that relate to water entering the basement, such as basement crack repair. The company is now able to identify and provide solutions to structural issues that can occur to homes when the foundation fails. Gordon Energy & Drainage can now address major foundation issues, such as installing foundation wall supports for bowed concrete walls and piers for settling basement walls.

Gordon Energy & Drainage has identified several key reasons to prompt them to enter this market.

REASON # 1: New housing starts are down from the highs in 2005. Gordon Energy & Drainage still has a 60% + market share in new home construction, however, the sluggish new homes construction market has caused a decrease in new home waterproofing and sump pump installation.

REASON # 2: Since Gordon Energy & Drainage already provides foundation waterproofing on new homes and existing homes, foundation repair makes for an easy transition. The company already has the trucks and equipment required to repair foundations. Additional office and warehouse space is not needed. Gordon Energy & Drainage is able to leverage existing space and employee resources, which makes for a seamless transition.

REASON # 3: Gordon Energy & Drainage has developed two key partnership to develop this new Kansas City foundation repair business. Earth Contact Products, located in Olathe, Kansas, will be supplying products to Gordon Energy & Drainage for foundation repairs. They offer hands on training and support to contractors across the country. Gordon Energy & Drainage is fortunate to have one of the nation’s top foundation repair suppliers less than a block away. Also, Gordon has announced the hiring of Bill Row to head this new Foundation Repair division. Bill previously worked at Olshan Foundation Repair and is considered to be one of the top Foundation Repair experts in Kansas City area. Bill has helped Gordon Energy & Drainage identify weaknesses in the local foundation repair market, and has developed a new business plan that will exploit this opportunity.

REASON # 4: The local Kansas City foundation repair market suffers from reputational issues related to seasonal pricing inconsistencies. Gordon Energy & Drainage believes that most Kansas City foundation contractors are less worried about repeat business, and more focused on maximizing profit on a “one-time” major home repair. Gordon Energy & Drainage, however, works hard for its customers to earn their repeat business. Gordon Energy & Drainage will change the local foundation repair market by becoming the first company to offer pricing transparency and consistency to Kansas City homeowners.

REASON # 5: PIERS FOR STABILIZING SETTLED FOUNDATION WALLS: Gordon Energy & Drainage believes that they can be successful because the company has a piering product that combines the best of all piers systems used in the Kansas City area into one solution: the ‘Gorilla Pier’. A pier is what foundation repair companies use to stabilize and lift foundations walls that have settled. The vast majority of all repair companies in Kansas City use a piering method that is installed on the side of the foundation footing and uses a bracket to support the weight of the house. These piers go deep into the ground until they hit solid bedrock, which is critical. The piers, however, are not set directly in the middle of the basement footing, where the house load is. This common piering method relies on a bracket to support this load. A smaller number of other foundation repair companies, install their piers directly in the middle of the footing, which is good, but this method does not reach solid bedrock. Competitor Kansas City piering contractor methods rely on friction to support the house and don’t go in nearly as deep into the ground. Gordon Energy & Drainage’s piering system is unique because it is installed directly in the center of the footing AND goes down deep to solid bedrock, giving homeowners the best of all piering methods. The company believes that most homeowners, when informed and given the choice, will realize benefits in this piering technology.

REASON # 6: BASEMENT WALL STABILIZATION-BOWED WALLS: There are several repair options for bowed foundation walls. All of these options can be used to stabilize and move a foundation wall back. Many of the foundation repair companies in Kansas City only offer one method to repair bowed walls. Gordon has identified this as a major deficiency in the local foundation repair market, because different circumstances can require different foundation repair techniques. Gordon has decided to offer custom foundation repair options so that Kansas City consumers will get the best and most-cost effective solutions for their basement wall and foundation issues.

About Gordon Energy & Drainage:
Located in Olathe Kansas, Gordon Energy & Drainage, has been a leading Kansas City foundation waterproofing company in Kansas City since 1972. The company provides a full line of Residential & Commercial services such as: Foundation Repair, Basement Waterproofing, Basement Crack Repair, Erosion Control, Yard Drainage & French Drains, Kansas City Sump Pumps, Egress & Window Wells, Attic Fans, Draintile Installation, Hydro Seeding & Brush Hogging, and Silt Fences.

You can learn more about Gordon Energy & Drainage by going to www.gordonenergy.com.

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